Wednesday 30 September 2015

Have you heard of Blagaj?

The first time I ever tried the actual fig fruit in Bosnia. Entirely bland, entirely meh. 



If you're active on social media, there's probably a chance that you've seen or heard of Blagaj. I've seen it appear on lists of places to visit/go countless times. Well, let me tell you something. For the hype that people have for it, I'm very very surprised why it is not filled to the brim with tourists. Although I really loved that the lack of tourism contributes to the serenity of the place, I just thought it deserves way more credit.

Blagaj's closest big city is Mostar, at the south of Bosnia & Herzegovina. Blagaj, although scenic, is a village. For tourists, it's nothing more than a few restaurants, a monastery,  and some souvenir stalls. So staying here for more than a few hours would be quite a stretch. Staying in Mostar and driving to Blagaj for a few hours would be a better option. It should take no longer than 1 hour 30 minutes. 





The white building that is on every Instagram-worthy picture of Blagaj is a Dervish monastery. The easiest association to Dervish that most people could easily relate to, that I can think of, is the Dervish dance you frequently see in Turkey. 

Source: turkeytourguide.com
Attended a Dervish dance in Turkey myself, but was too busy stuffing my face with kebabs that I forgot that I should at least take one picture of the show. 

So, not only is Blagaj serene, it is actually a place for people to seek out spiritual serenity. The monastery is still in use until today, which is why the building is so well maintained. Not only does it open up to Muslims (Dervish are Suni Muslims), it opens up to everyone seeking spiritual healing; from meditators to just curious tourists.  Isn't this how the world is supposed to be? 


The lake that flows next to the monastery is the Buna river. The river is completely crystal clear and is also icy cold. It's been icy cold since the monastery was built, where they used to keep perishable food in a sealed metal box and submerge it underwater in the cave next to the monastery. That's a refrigeration solution without HCFC-effects right there. What else could Blagaj do that amazes me more? Oh, the river water is so clean, it is drinkable. I actually took a bottle full of water from the river and had no problems whatsoever days after (But it could be just my habit of drinking off clear water wherever I see some). Here it is, mother nature handing me a river-full of ice water to welcome me. 1st class hospitality!



The blue-green water reflection and the jagged angles of the hill just makes it picture perfect. 







As I said, the monastery is open for visits at a small fee. For 2KM (approx. EUR1), I would say the visit is worth it. Besides, it is a national monument. I do suggest that everyone be mindful to the culture. If Orthodox churches ask that women cover their heads with scarves and Synagogue for men to wear a yarmulke (skullcap), remember that the monastery (also a place dedicated to the holy being/beings) can also have clothes sensitivity. It doesn't asks more than a person to dress decently. 






Somewhere around the back, there's a stairs that ends in the lake. It's a good place to just sit and absorb your surroundings. Grab some water, snap a few photos. 








Then comes the part to enter the actual monastery building itself. Before you go, there'll be a caretaker there to make sure that you are properly covered, as per their religion, and also be ready to act as your guide. For women, there'll be headscarves ready for you. We had a young tour guide, who is a member of the monastery's brotherhood. The knowledge he imparted during the tour was excellent and he was willing to take questions whenever. He'll bring you to each and every room, tell your the purpose of the room plus additional information that tourists may be interested in. For example, did you know the way the (Muslim) Prophet used to sit during meals is now scientifically proven to aid digestions and to prevent over-eating? Seriously, these are tourists. Information to prevent over-eating during holidays is life & death.




Inside the monastery, there are tombs. You'll be surprised but the tombs are on the second floor of the building, which is technically ground level since the first floor is below ground level. 


Since the monastery has been used for so longer by so many brotherhoods, each brotherhood residing in there place another intricated pattern on the ceiling, starting from the inside to the outside circumference. So just by looking at the ceiling, you could basically tell which brotherhood came before the other. 




Of all the rooms in the monastery, the toilet is my favourite. I suppose some people would prefer the word 'hamam' for being true to the language, but I like being true to the purpose. It's a room for self-cleaning, so it shall be a toilet. It is actually painted glass that creates this effect. So over the decades, the caretakers have taken the time to repaint the glass as well as to scrub bird-poop off them. The colourful, starry light plus the cooling limestone walls is my kind of toilet. 


Everything is Blagaj is so alive and beautiful.



One last look at the amazing Buna river and I'm sure I've convinced you to put Blagaj on your places to visit next, haven't I? 

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